Italy: Bay of Naples and Amalfi Coast

Arrival in Naples, one of the world’s great cities. It is noisy, vibrant, rambunctious and very much alive. We suggest that you come a few days early to have a chance to explore the vast diversity of this city. You can visit some of the best archeological museums in the world, wander through narrow streets teeming with people and shops or stroll the grand waterfront of Lungomare. Our hotel is located in the higher end neighbourhood of Santa Lucia overlooking Castel dell’Ova, the oldest castle in Naples. We will kick off the tour with a briefing and welcome dinner, your first introduction to the feasts of this city.

We check out of the hotel and head north along the Bay to a rowing club in Ilva di Bagnoli where our boats are waiting. We will row the Bay of Naples, past the peninsula of Miseno and on to Procida.  Procida was designated Italy's Capital of Culture for 2022, the first island to ever be granted the title. Lesser known than Ischia and Capri and less touristed than Capri, "Procida is for a slower kind of travel, no glitz or designer shops”. The houses are pastel coloured, roads snake up cliffs and around corners and charm is everywhere. No wonder this was the setting for the delightful movie, Il Postino! We will stop for lunch at Marina Corricella, an active fishing village with its waterfront line of restaurants. Our last section of rowing will take us along the island to the southeast corner where both the local rowing club and our hotel are found. We will settle in for a three-night stay.

The gorgeous island of Ischia is visible about four km further south and east. If the weather permits, we will circumnavigate the island. This will be a long row of at least 35 to 40 km. We will break it up with lunch and coffee stops. The views are magnificent from the water. Ischia is sometimes called the Isola Verde or green island. Perhaps for its vegetation, but more likely for the greenish tuff rock found throughout the island. Volcanic in origin from towering Monte Epomea, the rock has its distinctive colour from being underwater for so long. Be sure to photograph Fungo di Lacco Ameno, looking very much like an unusual mushroom growing from the water. Dinner on your own tonight.

After our big row yesterday, we will row shorter distances today, taking time to get out of the boats and see more of the stunning scenery. Castello Aragonese at Ischia Ponte is the most striking feature of the island. Recognized for its strategic importance from as early as the 5th century BC, the citadel has provided defence for successive waves of civilization from the Greeks, Romans, Visigoths, Vandals, Saracens, Normans, Swabians and even the English during the Napoleonic Wars. Nearby is the Torre Michelangelo allegedly stayed equally awed by the beauty of this region. Back to Procida and a final dinner on this charming island.

This is another full day. First we need to row the boats back to Ilva di Bagnoli, about 16 km. We are heading south to Salerno. Directly on our way is the world-famous site of Pompei. We will explore the highlights and nooks and crannies of this must-see destination with a private guide before continuing onto the fascinating city of Salerno. Called a small Naples without the mad motorcycles, there is much to see and appreciate in this port city which has also bears the vestiges of waves of history and civilizations. There are Roman ruins, Byzantine churches, a medieval museum, and World War II landing beaches. We will check into our modern hotel in Salerno for three nights. Salerno also has an excellent gastronomic tradition, which we will test over dinner this evening.

Our launch spot is Salerno’s prestigious rowing club and our destination is Amalfi! Rowing distance approximately 22 km. The Amalfi coast, or Costiera Amalfitana in Italian, has been designated a landscape of outstanding cultural value. There is inherent natural beauty on which are layered centuries of civilizations. There will be plenty to look at as we row. We will leave the protected harbour at Salerno to row southwestward along the coastline, passing Vietri sul Mare, Cetara, and Erchie before rounding Capo d’Oro. A break for lunch and a leg stretch before we continue our westward journey. We plan to row as far as Amalfi, although the small crowded beach will likely not be amenable to landing. Back to Maiori where we will leave our boats overnight at the local rowing club. Ferry back to Salerno. Dinner on your own tonight.

Today will combine some sightseeing with the rowing. A morning ferry will take us to Positano, called both the most beautiful vertical village in the world and the most photographed fishing village in the world. Swim and relax on the black beach, shop the extensive boutiques or climb the multiple stairs then a walking trail to get the higher perspective of this famous town and its situation on the stunning coastline. There are cultural sights too, particularly the Villa Romana. After lunch it is back to our boats in Maori. Take time to savour the sights as we row back towards Salerno. For example the beach at Marina di Erchie is dominated by a Norman tower and a 10thcentury Benedictine abbey. Look at vineyards, olive tress and citrus groves clinging to the cliffs. We might stop at Vietri sul Mare, famed for its ceramics. For more sculling kilometres we will continue south past Salerno, following the extensive line of golden sand beaches against a backdrop of volcanic hills. We will enjoy a fantastic farewell dinner.

Salerno is a major transportation hub whether by train, boat or bus. Head to your next destination full of memories of remarkable rowing, great company and beautiful scenery.