Italy: Lago Maggiore

Arrive in Arona on the southern shores of Lago Maggiore and immediately be enchanted. Stroll along the waterfront, admiring the towering Rocca Borromeo across the water. Pause for a caffè or gelato in Piazza del Popolo then meandering the shopping street, via Cavour. It is not too early to find a perfect gift for someone special or a memento for yourself. Or maybe visit the Sacro Monte di San Carlo and the St Charles Colossus to get amazing views and see where we row. Enjoy a delicious welcome dinner, meet your guides and support team and get an orientation to the trip.  

It’s a short ferry trip across to Angera where we find our boats and head out for our first row on this Italy rowing tour. This southernmost arm of Lago Maggiore is the most intimate part of the lake, where Lombardy to the east and Piedmont to the west almost touch. Our row takes us to one of the most spectacular visits of the entire lake. Santa Caterina del Sasso is a hermitage and monastery cut into the cliffs above the lake. We will climb the stairs to the original Chapel of the Rock and will admire the frescoes of the Chapterhouse, as well as the wonderful views. We leave the boats in Reno and return to Arona. We have a cooking class planned for the afternoon. Anticipated rowing distance – 17 km.

Rowing from Reno, we will follow the western shore to pass Stresa, considered la grande dame of the lakeside resorts, and renowned for its magnificent villas and a series of grand hotels dating from the 19^th century. The real highlights of the row however are the charming Isole Borromee, three small islands of villas, formal gardens and a tiny village. The Borromeo family were bankers who rose to nobility in the 1450’s. Their prestige and wealth is especially obvious on Isola Bella, dominated by a palazzo. Isola dei Pescatori was once a fishermen’s village, while Isola Madre is filled to the brim with the lush vegetation of its gardens. On the far end of the Golfo Borromeo is Feriolo, where we will leave the boats. From there a drive to Pallanza, almost as elegant as Stresa. The rich and diverse gardens at Villa Tàranto were developed over decades by a wealthy Scotsman, who planted seeds from around the world. We will visit the gardens before continuing along the shore to Cannero Riveria, our home for the next two nights. Anticipated rowing distance – 15 km.

In the morning we return to Feriolo to continue rowing. We will follow the shore all the way to Cannero Riveria. This will give us time to observe the multitude of villas and gardens and little beaches and start enjoying views as the hills grade higher and higher into the edge of the Alps. Before landing we will circle the nearby islands dominated by a huge castle. We will have time to relax in the afternoon, perhaps swimming at the beach or strolling the shore lined with orange, lemon, olive, magnolia, azalea and mimosa trees. Off the main road and away from the crowds, this is a seductively quiet Italian paradise. Tonight dinner is on your own. Anticipated rowing distance – 22 km.

The row from Cannero Riveria to our next hotel is quite short, if we were to take the direct route. We will enjoy a more circuitous route, crossing the lake to stop in Caldè. There is a pretty church above an equally charming town which we will visit before rowing a little further for our lunch stop. Onward to our hotel. A little surprise awaits – this might be the most unique way you have ever left a rowing shell … Dinner tonight is in Maccagno, a short ride away, at a lovely beachside restaurant complete with wood fired oven for pizzas. Mamma mia, this will be tasty. Anticipated rowing distance – 24 km.

Our last day of rowing is, as expected, spectacular. We also will do something that you don’t often get to do – row into another country.  First we cross to the western shore of the lake, pausing to admire beautiful Colmegna. As we follow the curves of the winding lake we can see high mountains ahead of us, green slopes behind us, churches and towns beside us. Then we are in Switzerland – will you be able to tell where the border is? For sure it will be obvious when we row between the Isole di Brissago. A little break here means that you are on Swiss soil before we return to Italy for lunch. Then on to Luino – we are rowing the boats home. Return to relax at our lovely lakefront hotel. Enjoy a sumptuous farewell dinner and the chance to say thank you to the wonderful team who have made this all possible for us. Anticipated rowing distance – 30 km.

Sadly, all good things come to an end. But the magic of Lago Maggiore will stay with you as you bid farewell to this beautiful area. It will have cast a spell on you, and will draw you back again some day.